I was just tossing the idea around and was coming up with the same reasons why it won't work. The only difference there is Bora-care has ethylene glycol, antifreeze, in it, glycol dries very slowly, borate diffuses in on the wet. If the wood is dry, below FSP, then use Bora-care or add glycol to Solubor. If I treat green right off the saw, above fiber saturation point, when you can see the wet in the wood, Timbor or Solubor gives penetration as deep as Bora-care or Solubor + antifreeze. I saw a comment you made on borate and I'll give you a heads up there. That outer shell is drying and shrinking way faster than the fat green core, it wants to pop its buttons. The heavy timber is the slow poke and if anything, on something like an exposed heavy timber porch post, I'll put an oil type finish on it to slow down the surface drying to try to reduce checking in the sun and wind. We'll plane and straight line it right before use. The poplar I'm sawing for framing now, well, whenever this ice and sleet stops, I can about guarantee by the time he gets the site and foundation ready its going to be mighty close to lumber store KD. West coast framers have put up a lot of green DF. really if it's stickered under tin by the time you get to framing porches it'll be dry. The shrinkage on a 2x8 is not a problem IMO. The real issue is going to be finding enough 2x8 ERC that makes #2 unless there are much better trees out there than here, it is a small very knotty tree to me, most would be in the #3 category, porch roof sheathing maybe. ![]() Not really a problem IMO on the tails however the usual rule of thumb on something like that is 2/3 inboard 1/3 outboard and nail the heck out of it. IF you do a skip sheathing and tin pole barn maybe, but even then I don't. ![]() ![]() We've been using 30 psf for total roof load 20LL+10DL Even if snow is below 20 psf wind then controls, never use less than 20psf Live Load, about never use less than 10 psf Dead Load.
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